The Search for the
Perfect Firearms Lubricants
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article is for entertainment only and is not to be used in lieu of a
qualified gunsmith. Please
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Any loads mentioned in this article are my loads for my
guns and have been carefully worked up using established guidelines and
special tools. The
author assumes no responsibility or liability for use of these loads,
or use or misuse of this article.
Please note that I am not a
professional gunsmith, just a shooting enthusiast and hobbyist, as well
as a tinkerer. This
article explains work that I performed to my guns without the
assistance of a qualified gunsmith.
Some procedures described in this
article require special tools and cannot/should not be performed
and tinkering with your firearm may void the warranty.
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or misuse of this article. Again,
this article is for entertainment purposes only!
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their respective manufacturers.
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Like many firearms enthusiasts, I want to keep my firearms in tip-top condition,
which means cleaning and lubricating them properly.
We all have our favorite cleaners and lubricants, but I wanted to find a
cost-effective product that would lubricate and protect my firearms from
corrosion when stored long-term in my gun safe.
(As you will see, I did save money per use, but not on the initial cost.)
I have used all the cleaners/lubricants pictured above at one time or
another; some worked well and were easy to use, and others did not work or were
difficult to use. Iím sure one or
more of your favorites is here.
effort to save money I was searching the Internet for a homemade lubricant and
stumbled on Grant Cunninghamís excellent article
101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to
tell the difference. His
article explains all about firearms lubricants; the good, the bad, and the ugly.
I am going to start using the oil and grease based on his article.
I also watched some YouTube videos on testing firearms lubricants, which
I found interesting and enlightening.
years I used Hoppeís #9 gun oil as my final preservative, but I discovered that
it dries out, and when dry it provides little or no protection.
This may be why when I purchase a used gun it comes to me bone dry.
The oil used by the previous owner has probably dried out while the gun
ago, I read an article in a gun magazine about a corrosion test where the author
coated iron nails with different lubricants and suspended them in jars of water
to see which provided the best corrosion protection.
Breakfree CLP (Clean Lube Protect) was the
hands-down winner, so I stopped using Hoppeís and began using CLP.
CLP has Teflon suspended in it, and when left sitting, the Teflon will
separate out, so it should be shaken (not stirred
😉) before each use.
seemed to take forever to clean a gun with CLP, so I called the manufacturer and
was told that CLP should not be used as the primary gun cleaner; itís better to
use a dedicated solvent/cleaner for the initial cleaning, then finish
lubricating with CLP. There is a
cleaning component added to CLP in case the firearm is still a little dirty, but
it should be used only as a lubricant and final preservative.
I have a rag (old T-shirt) that is so soaked with CLP that I use it to
wipe down my guns after handling.
processing of fabricating parts I found LPS Tapmatic #1 Gold.
This is designed as a cutting fluid, but on firearms it works great for
long-term storage. It sticks to
metal and wonít dry out like Hoppeís.
I have been using this on all the surfaces of my guns where there is no
part interaction, i.e. not on pins, sears, slide rails, etc.
The MSDS shows it is composed of:
Hydrotreated Heavy 064742-52-5
Methyl Ester of Soybean
Monobutyl Ether 029911-28-2
Methyl ester ES
me, this seemed to work very well as a preservative/final coating after
thoroughly cleaning a gun. I havenít
done any corrosion testing with this oil, but I like the fact that it sticks to
the metal. After reading Grantís
article, I will no longer be using this oil on my guns, primarily because I
havenít researched or tested it as thoroughly as Grant.
use on sears I have been using
Brownellís Action Lube Plus which works well.
Iíve had a small tub for years and apply it with a toothpick.
I will continue to use this on internal parts as recommended by Grant.
slide rails I have been using Gun Butter.
Itís expensive, but a little goes a long way.
I put a few tiny drops on the slide and frame rails, move the slide back
and forth on the frame a few times, wipe off the excess, and Iím good to go.
Again, based on Grantís article, Iíll be using the SFL-0 grease.
really like the needle attachment that comes with Gun Butter because it allows
me to control the amount and location of the lubricant.
Most firearms lubricants come with a spout with a large opening that
causes you to apply way too much, which you then must wipe off.
This wastes the excess lubricant, which means it is used up more quickly.
Maybe that is the manufacturerís plan to get you to buy more!
(You can purchase empty needle oilers from Amazon.com to help control
your application of oil. I have
included links in this article for everything I purchased from Amazon.)
have used automotive wheel bearing grease to grease up my M1 Garand.
Garandgear.com recommends any NLGI #2 grease.
I also use this grease on my Ruger Mini-30, and other firearms with
high-friction, high-demand areas. I
apply the grease with either a cotton swab for large areas, or a toothpick for
small areas. I apply a thin layer; a
little goes a long way. Grant says
to avoid most automotive products because they are designed for vehicles and may
have qualities/additives not good for firearms use.
His exception is good olí Dexron automatic transmission fluid (ATF) which
he says has most of the qualities a good gun oil should have, with some
exceptions. He doesnít care for the
red dye that stains, the odor or the toxicity, and it only provides average
corrosion protection, so he doesnít recommend ATF anymore.
For the M1 Garand, the Civilian
Marksmanship Program (CMP) recommends using the same SFL-0 grease as
recommended by Grant.
We all have a specific cleaning routine for our guns.
My cleaning routine consists of the following procedure:
Run a dry bore brush
through the barrel and cylinder chambers to loosen soot particles.
Run a patch wetted with
Edís Red (formula at the end of this article) through the barrel and
Run a bore brush through
the wet barrel and cylinder chambers to scrub them.
For barrels with lead or
copper fouling, I plug the breach, fill the barrel with Butches Bore Shine,
and let it soak for a couple of hours.
Run patches wetted with
Edís Red through the barrel and cylinder chambers until they come out clean.
Take the patch used in
the previous step to wipe down exposed areas of the cylinder and frame/
receiver, barrel and muzzle. Donít
forget to clean the magazine tube if your gun has one[i].
Use a cotton swab wetted
with Edís Red to clean out all the nooks and crannies.
I am constantly amazed how gunpowder residue gets everywhere;
especially on semi-auto handguns and rifles[ii].
Once clean, dry
thoroughly with patches, cotton swabs, and a cloth.
Run a patch wetted with
oil through the barrel and cylinder chambers.
Use the same patch to coat all external surfaces of the gun.
Run a dry patch through
the barrel and cylinder chambers. This
leaves a thin coating of oil on the metal.
Apply a thin layer of
grease to slide rails and bolt carriers or other recommended areas (as on an
Use a gun cloth to wipe
down all external surfaces of the gun.
Try not to touch the metal surfaces of the gun when putting it in
storage, or wear gloves to avoid leaving fingerprints on the metal.
Fingerprints contain oil which can cause corrosion.
Never store a gun in a bag or leather holster as these can absorb
moisture and cause corrosion. ďBut
I just oiled my gun!Ē Gun bags
and leather will absorb the oil leaving the gun dry and susceptible to
an old T-shirt as a gun cloth. It
has been liberally coated with my favorite gun oil, which I use to wipe down my
guns after handling. I have one
coated with Breakfree CLP, and one coated with Tapmatic #1 Gold.
After you wipe down a freshly oiled gun, your gun cloth will absorb more
oil, which makes it perfect for wiping down already-clean guns.
After reading Grantís article, I will have a gun cloth impregnated with
the FG 68 oil. To make your own gun
cloth, take an 18Ē x18Ē piece of flannel, sprinkle 1-2 tablespoons of oil all
over the cloth, then roll it up and wring it out like a washcloth.
The oil will impregnate the cloth which you can use to wipe down your
So, did you read Grantís article?
Based on his article I decided to change my firearm lubricants.
Lubriplate FMO-350-AW as his primary lubricant.
It is a non-toxic, food-grade mineral oil with additives that provides
excellent lubrication, migration, and protection for firearms.
It is cheaper than any specialty gun oil, but it is only available in
large quantities. Amazon sells a
4-gallon case for $135.87 with free shipping which comes to 26.5Ę/ounce.
Lubrikit www.lubrikit.com is
selling this oil and the SFL-0 grease in a kit.
The kit consists of two 15cc Syringes of Lubriplate SFL-0 grease plus a
4oz bottle of Lubriplate FMO 350-AW Oil for $16.95 plus shipping.
15cc is about 1/2 ounce so all together there are 5 ounces of lubricant,
which comes to $3.39/ounce plus shipping.
Bluesky Lubricants sells an exact replacement for the Lubriplate FMO-350-AW
lubricant called FG 68 manufactured by Stratus, a German company
Amazon.com sells it in a 5-gallon pail for $86.40 + $24.99 shipping for a
total of $111.39, which comes to 17.5Ę/ounce.
Cheaper than the Lubriplate product, but still expensive for the large
quantity. I purchased this 5-gallon
pail which will last me a lifetime, so guess what my shooting friends will be
getting for Christmas? Not everyone
can afford to purchase this much oil, but if several friends get together, or
maybe a gun club makes the purchase, it can be very cost effective.
also recommends using Lubriplate SFL-0 food-grade, aluminum-based grease.
I purchased a 15oz. tub for $25.87 with free shipping from
Amazon.com which should also last me a lifetime.
MidwayUSA.com sells it for $15.99 plus shipping.
Because I travel for a living and get to save my air miles, I converted
some of those miles into Amazon gift cards and purchased the oil, grease, and
packaging shown below for free.
Purchasing from MidwayUSA.com would require that I pay with cash.
Because I had so much oil and grease, I decided to repackage it into easier to
use containers for myself and for gifts for my shooting friends.
I purchased some 10ml/10cc syringes with caps and some with 1.5Ē blunt
needles. I also purchased 1-ounce
bottles; some with caps, some with long needle caps, and some with short needle
caps. My wife found a case of 60
10cc makeup/candle tins at a discount store for $2.00 which worked great for the
5-gallon pail of FG 68 came with a spout in the lid.
I purchased a pump from Amazon.com that screwed onto the spout which
allowed me to dispense the oil directly into a container.
I pumped the oil into a 1-pint plastic bottle, then from the 1-pint
plastic bottle into the 1-ounce bottles.
I also made some flannel gun cloths impregnated with FG 68 oil to give to
SFL-0 grease is so light (NLGI #0) that I could draw it directly into a syringe
through a small PVC tube. I used the
syringe to fill a 10cc tin, then covered the tin and sealed it with tape around
the seam. After I filled all the
tins that I needed, I refilled the syringe once more, then cleaned and capped
the tip. I labeled each bottle, tin
and syringe with a marker. So, each
of my friends received three bottles of oil, two 10cc syringes of grease, a 10cc
tin filled with grease, and a flannel cloth impregnated with FG 68 oil to use as
a gun cloth. This will probably last
them many years, but I have enough to replenish them if necessary.
placed everything in a plastic sandwich bag because I didnít want the oil to
leak. I purchased a bundle of 25 4Ē
x 4Ē x 8Ē shipping boxes also from Amazon.
I used these to package the oil bottles, tin and syringes which I wrapped
and gave to my shooting friends for Christmas.
I also provided a copy of Grantís article in each box.
I reformatted it to fit in a 5 1/2Ē x 8 1/2Ē booklet.
This gives my friends some justification why I am providing oil and
grease as a gift.
are the links for the items I purchased from Amazon.com:
If you watch YouTube or read articles on the Internet, everyone has their own
take on firearms lubrication, and often their own recipe.
Many follow the general rule of lubrication; oil for rotating parts,
grease for sliding parts that carry a load.
Some say not to use grease because it attracts and holds dirt and grit
and will eventually cause excessive wear.
Hopefully this shouldnít be a problem because the SFL-0 grease is so
thin. Excessive oil will also
attract dirt and grit, which is why oil and grease should be used lightly and
was the use of this oil and grease worth the cost?
Because it lubricates and protects my firearms, the cost was far less
than specialty gun oils and greases.
Yes, the money spent could have purchased a lot of more expensive specialty
lubricants, but again, I want the best for my firearms.
When lubricating firearms, less is more, so small amounts will last a
long time. But because my guns spend
more time in the gun safe than at the range
☹, I needed the corrosion protection.
The cost to me was $0 because I used air miles to purchase Amazon gift
cards. However, at the time of this
article, each lubrication kit would have cost me $6.10, which is much less than
a small bottle of many specialty gun care products available on the market.
And rather than relying on marketing and advertising ďhypeĒ about the
next miracle lubricant/protectant for firearms, I based my purchases on facts
backed up by knowledgeable experts.
to Grant Cunningham for sharing his research, findings, and suggestions in his
excellent article. If you havenít
already read his article, please click on the link at the beginning of this
article or down below. Like me, you
will probably find it both informative, and a little bit embarrassing because I,
too, have been caught up in the expensive, marketing hype searching for the
perfect firearms lubricant!
101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to
tell the difference
Disclaimer: Mix the
following chemicals in a well-ventilated location and at your own risk.
Kerosene, 1 quart
ATF, 1 quart
Mineral spirits or turpentine, 1 quart
years ago, I mixed up a gallon of Edís Red and I think Iím about half-way
through. I keep it stored in my gun
room in a 1-gallon pickle jar but keep a quart of it on my cleaning table in a
Mason jar. It took a while to get
used to the smell, but the next time I mix up a batch Iíll be using odorless
kerosene and odorless mineral spirits.
The red dye used in the Dexron ATF will stain, so I wear a shop apron
when cleaning guns. Edís Red does a
poor job of preserving firearms, so I only use it as a cleaning agent.
Homemade Firearms Lube (CLP)
find a homemade lubricant formula on the Internet; here it is:
2-Quarts Synthetic Motor
Oil. We used 10-30 but weight isnít
Transmission Fluid. Brand and spec.
1-Bottle of original
STP. The blue bottle.
1-7 oz. bottle of
Hoppe's #9 Solvent. (This is the
one-gallon container; be sure it is clean.
Pour the oil and ATF in first and shake well.
Add the STP and then the Hoppe's and mix well.
little goes a long way. Give your
friends some. It is some amazing
I once had a lever-action rifle stop feeding cartridges during a cowboy
match because the follower in the magazine tube bound up.
Because I was shooting light loads the brass didnít expand to
seal the chamber so soot got down into the magazine tube.
Over time, the build-up of soot caused the follower to jam.
Not a good thing to happen in the middle of a match.
Also, this soot attracts moisture.
The magazine tube in my Winchester í97 was very pitted from rust
because the previous owner(s) never cleaned and oiled it.
.22s are notoriously dirty and soot gets into many nooks and crannies of
a gun, especially semiauto handguns and rifles.
I have also found Alliant powders to be more dirty than other